

week 13.
Syros, Greece
July 13
I arrived in Greece yesterday; I’ll be here for a couple weeks. After spending a month with friends across Europe, this will be a kind of vacation from vacation. Just me, a small island, and the wide open sea.
I was guided to Greece by Leonard Cohen (my favorite prophet). He spent a lot of time on Hydra, and I guess I’m curious what it was that he saw here.
I’ve been listening to his music (as well as Dylan and Joni) and reading Homer’s Odyssey.
Except today I cheated and read Ginsburg’s Kaddish.
———
So much suffering in the world. It’s unimaginable. I can only thank my parents for bearing the brunt of it, so I wouldn’t have to. Yet.
How can I ever smile
When Imma will one day die?
I live atop a pile of death. All that once lived is now dead. I look around, and see the graveyard of existence.
What am I to think of death? The word itself says enough. Death death death.
Emet and Met are nearly identical. Distinguishable only by the little letter aleph. E-met. I die. E-met. I am dead. E-met. I am death.
Truth = death
We’ve all heard enough about the death of Truth. Tell us more about the truth of Death.
What secrets does the sea contain? What horrors does it shield from my gaze?
Where on Syros does death go to live?
Is she lurking out on the endless blue horizons?
Is she gliding across the barren desert hills?
Is she tumbling in the restless winds?
Or is she hidden in my own lonely silence?
Vacation is surely the epitome of the death drive.
And on the seventh day god rested from all the work that he had performed.
And he sanctified it.
July 15
The Odyssey (6, 77):
I beg you for help, my lady. But tell me first — are you a goddess or are you a mortal woman? For never have I set eyes on any mere mortal, man or woman, as beautiful, lady, as you are. I am overwhelmed with awe as I gaze upon you. The only time that I ever saw something as lovely was in Delos: a slender young palm tree that grew besides Apollo’s alter — my travels had taken me there with an army, although the expedition was doomed to end very badly — and when I saw it, I marveled for a long time, so magnificent was that tree.
In just the same way, my lady, I am now seized by wonder and veneration as I behold you and I dare not clasp your knees as a suppliant, though my misery is extreme.
So have pity on me, my lady. You are the first person that I have met after all these hardships, and I don’t know a soul here. Show me the way to the city and give me a rag to put on, if only the cloth that served as the wrapping for those fine garments of yours.
I pray that the gods will grant you your heart’s desire, a good home and a good husband, and harmony between the two of you. Nothing is sweeter than that, when a man and woman can live together as one, with one mind and heart. It confounds their enemies, gladdens their friends, but they know it best themselves.
-
Life is best understood as a lullaby toward death.
It is a truism, stated by all the great traditions, that every instant contains eternity. Every particle holds the infinite.
The Torah has seventy faces.
When I open my eyes and my heart to the world around me, death, suffering, darkness close in from every side. They present their many faces to me. They look me in the eye, daring me to look away. They sneer at me, confident in their hold on my life, a power that consumes everything in their path.
I speak of a ‘they’, a plurality of forces, but in reality there is just the one.
I look into the face of the person beside me. I read a history of pain imprinted there.
My airbnb host, Victor, has a scuba tank up against his living room wall. It belonged to his dad, a man driven by adventure. He died 7 years ago from a motorcycle accident. A broken rib pierced his organs, leaving him to a rapid and painful death.
Victor still hasn’t learned to scuba dive. Instead he holds his breath and free dives down to 15, 20, 25 meters where he goes spear hunting.
This morning we sat on his porch, talking about the sea. I told him about how helpless I feel in the water, held in its powerful grip. I enjoy discovering my balance there, somewhere between surrender and support. It feels like I’m being cuddled by god.
Victor told me about his favorite memory. When he was 7, he went to the beach with his parents but the waves were very tall and he was afraid to go in.
His father took him by the hand, drew him to the water, and told him not to fight the surge, but to let it guide him. He told him to just give in to force. That he’ll be just fine. As they went deeper in, his dad let go of his hand, and as the wave pulled him high into the air he looked down upon his mother. He remembers that “she looked like an ant.”
Victor spent every summer in Syros since he was 3 years old, but now he is all alone here. Surrounded by the barren hills, the crashing sea, and the pouring wind. He makes keychains from the pebbles and sea shells that he gathers from the shore. (He gave me one.)
I told him that he’s a philosopher. Or a monk.
He laughed at me. Said that he has to fill the time somehow.
The tattoo on his arm reads: NEVER BACK DOWN
———
I feel myself
perched
At the edge
Of insanity.
I linger
Undecidedly
At that border between sweetness and shuddering.
Why must bliss join with tears?
Between ecstasy and emptiness
Lies nothing at all.
———
The moon is full
And you are missing.
Why does beauty bring out our loneliness?
Why must it always remind us that there is no one with whom to share it?
Why does beauty (like ugliness) insist on being shared?
We, like Adam, are cursed to find ourselves
In the Other.
Only the lullaby can exist on its own.
Only the lullaby can live in private.
The lullaby flows when beauty learns to be alone.
But does not the prophet say, “It is not good for man to be alone?”
The lullaby cannot lead toward life. It marches toward death.
Back in Israel, Dovi wondered why people are so afraid of going to hell, when that is where we already live.
I could say the same for heaven.
———
I am lost in thought.
I look around and grow confused. Shall I wander for forty years?
I have only one true desire: women. But desire, the Buddha reminds me, leads only to suffering. Ha, we’ll see about that!
I’m not successful enough to retire just yet.
But what about reading? Talking? Learning? Traveling? Music? Aren’t these also desires?
Not exactly. I desire the state of mind that those provide me with. In other words, I desire myself while I’m doing those things.
With women, I am snatched out of myself, spun out into the world. For once, I desire someone else. Women don’t make me feel good. And still I want them. Actually, when they are around, they are the only thing I want.
I can pretend to read or write or talk or listen or laugh. But make no mistake. I’m thinking about her. Perhaps the sweetest lullaby of all is the sound-feeling of the breath. When all else fails, the breath, my breath, is always there to comfort me.
July 16
I went diving today on the west side of the island. It was my first dive in a few years and although I was calm going into it, as soon as I sunk beneath the surface, I felt fucking terrified.